04/10/2006

Ham it up

Richly seasoned ham makes handsome Easter centerpiece

The Associated Press
Red wine and cracked black pepper- corns are the basis of ingredients that gives this ham a rich flavor.

Ham for Easter is a tradition. That doesn't mean it has to be ho-hum.

If ham is the centerpiece of your Easter dinner this year, check your options for choosing, slicing and serving it. Here are some guidelines.

Ham types

Hams are labeled according to the amount of water added to the ham during the curing process. Hams are dry-cured by rubbing salt and spices into the meat's surface, or wet-cured with a brine solution containing water, salt, sugar and spices.

There are four types of ham to choose from:

• Ham described as Old-fashioned, Country-style or Southern-style. This is a Southern specialty, a style of ham that's dry-cured and contains no added water. It is extremely salty and is usually served in small portions, very thinly sliced.

• Ham with natural juices. A favorite main-dish dinner choice, this ham has little water added in the curing process. Its velvety texture and attractive appearance make it a good choice for holiday meals.

• Ham, water added. Suitable for steaks, thin slicing and shaving, ham with water added is a versatile choice. It retains more water during the curing process than ham with natural juices.

• Ham and water product. Useful for sandwiches, this ham is commonly found in the deli and has the most water added. It is used for cold cuts, either shaved or sliced.

Buying bone-in or boneless

Each ham variety comes either bone-in or boneless, but the flavor is the same. Bone-in hams can add style to the occasion, but can be tricky to carve. Boneless hams are considered more informal and easier to serve.

When serving bone-in ham, plan on 2 to 3 servings per pound. A boneless ham will yield 4 to 5 servings per pound. Bone-in hams are available whole, or as a shank or butt half.

Carving a ham

Be prepared with the right tools and techniques for the job. Use a high-quality, freshly sharpened carving knife and cut only enough ham for immediate needs so that the remaining ham stays moist and juicy.

Simple steps for carving different types of ham:

• Bone-in ham. Place the ham on its side. Steady the ham with a fork and cut several long slices off the thin side and turn the ham onto its cut surface. Make perpendicular slices to the leg bone. To loosen the slices, cut along the leg bone, removing each slice with the fork.

• Boneless ham. Cut several long slices off the side, turn onto its cut surface and slice to the desired thickness.

The National Pork Board offers a free brochure, "Ham 365: Enjoy Ham All Year," helpful for cooks of all ability levels. It includes information and recipes for everyday meals. The brochure, and other meal ideas, are available at http://www.TheOtherWhiteMeat.com. The recipe booklet also is available by sending a self-addressed mailing label to: Ham 365: Enjoy Ham All Year, National Pork Board, P.O. Box 9114, Des Moines, IA 50306.

Meanwhile, here's a baked ham dish with a certain distinction, that is, different without being disconcerting — and in no way difficult to make.

Red wine and cracked black peppercorns are the power basis of a simple but effective combination of ingredients that gives this ham both a burnished glaze and rich flavor.

Baked Ham With Cabernet-Peppercorn Glaze

6- to 8-lb. smoked, bone-in ham (shank portion)
2½ c. cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir
2 T. finely chopped cipollini onions or shallots
½ t. finely chopped fresh thyme
1 t. cracked black pepper
5 T. honey
1 c. canned reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 T. cornstarch
1 T. butter

Heat oven to 350°.

Combine wine, onion and thyme in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Set aside 1 c. wine mixture for serving sauce.

Place ham in shallow baking pan; score by making diagonal cuts, about 1/8-inch thick, in a diamond pattern in surface of ham. Sprinkle with pepper and rub into surface cuts with fingers. Brush ham with 3 T. honey.

Pour ¼ c. of remaining wine mixture over ham. Bake ham in center of 350° oven for 1½ to 2½ hours or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest portion (not touching bone) registers 140° (about 15 to 18 minutes per pound), basting every 30 minutes with ¼ c. more of remaining wine mixture.

Remove ham from oven. Transfer ham to cutting board. Loosely cover with foil. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing. Discard wine mixture in pan.

Meanwhile, combine ½ c. reserved wine mixture and chicken broth in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, until mixture is reduced to 1 c. Stir cornstarch into remaining ½ c. reserved wine mixture, then stir mixture into hot wine-broth mixture. Add 2 T. honey and butter. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 444 cal., 28 g total fat (10 g saturated), 125 mg chol., 133 mg sodium, 9 g carbo., 34 g pro., 0 g fiber.

—Recipe developed for AP by the National Pork Board

Ham with Bourbon, Molasses and Pecan Glaze

1/2 c. apple juice (preferably fresh unfiltered)
1/4 c. bourbon
1&3/4 c. (packed) dark brown sugar
1 c. pecans, toasted, cooled, finely ground
1/4 c. mild-flavored (light) molasses
3 T. dry mustard
1 whole bone-in 16- to 18-lb. ham

Boil juice and bourbon in small saucepan until reduced to scant 1/3 c., about six minutes. Combine sugar, pecans, molasses and mustard in bowl. Add bourbon mixture; stir to form thick paste. (Can be made two days ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to room temperature before using.)

Position rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 325°. Line large roasting pan with heavy-duty foil, leaving overhang on all sides. Trim off skin and all but 1/4-inch fat from ham. Place ham, fat side up, in prepared pan. Roast ham until thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 130° to 135°, about 10 minutes per pound or 2 hours 40 minutes for 16-lb. ham.

Remove ham from oven; increase oven temperature to 425°. Lightly score fat on ham in diamond pattern. Rub glaze thickly over top and sides of ham. Return ham to oven and roast until glaze is deep brown and bubbling, about 25 minutes. Let ham stand at least 20 minutes, up to 45 minutes.

Makes 12 servings.

—Bon Appétit

Ham with Garlic and Rosemary

1 10-12 lb. bone-in cooked ham
8 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into thin strips
8 sprigs rosemary
1/2 c. dark brown sugar
1/2 c. Dijon mustard
2 c. apple juice or other liquid

Preheat oven to 350°.

Peel the skin from the ham and trim the fat, leaving a 1/4-inch layer. Using the tip of a sharp knife, score the fat in a diamond pattern. Insert the sliced garlic and rosemary sprigs into the scores on the ham.

Mix the sugar and mustard together and brush on the ham. Place in a shallow roasting pan, add the liquid to the pan, and bake for 1&1/2 hours or until the internal temperature reaches 140 to 150°. Remove from pan, place ham on a platter, and serve. Makes 12 servings.

—Katie Brown Entertains

Smithfield Ham Baked with Madeira

1 15&1/2-lb. fully cooked smoked Smithfield ham or Tennessee ham
3 T. butter, room temperature
1 t. ground nutmeg
1 750-ml bottle Madeira

Preheat oven to 350°. Trim rind and excess fat from ham, leaving 1/4-inch-thick layer of fat.

Place ham on roasting rack set in heavy large roasting pan. Spread butter over ham. Sprinkle nutmeg over ham. Pour Madeira into pan. Bake ham until well glazed and dark brown, basting every 10 minutes with pan juices, about 11/2 hours. Let ham stand at least 20 minutes. Thinly slice ham, beginning at shank end and proceeding at angle toward thicker part of ham. Serve ham hot or at room temperature. Serves 12.

Note: Good home-cured hams could be found in every colony, but those of Smithfield, Virginia, were considered among the finest, and their reputation remains stellar today. According to a 1926 law, genuine Smithfield hams must be cured, smoked and aged for a year within the Smithfield city limits. Madeira was a popular Colonial beverage, although for a time it was boycotted because of British taxation.

—Bon Appétit