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June 12, 2005

Historic Fishtown faces sale, uncertain future

Merchants, artists, residents hope to see site preserved

By
Record-Eagle business editor

Fishtown
A portion of Leland's Fishtown may be sold. Business owners and community leaders say the district brings in tourism dollars and has historical significance because of its authenticity.
      LELAND - Northern Michigan artist Charles Murphy has painted scenes from the historic Fishtown district more times than he can remember - but never tires of its charm and authenticity.
      "It's the gentle aging of the buildings, the rustic nature of the buildings and the sort of helter-skelter of how they're arranged - that's what makes it so compelling," said Murphy. "For me, it's been an incredible source of inspiration."
      But uncertainty clouds Fishtown's future as an artistic setting, tourist destination, or glimpse into 19th Century commerce in Leelanau County.
      Owner Bill Carlson is prepared to sell the rustic property and scale back his role in the family's generations-old commercial fishing business.
      Carlson, 62, hopes a buyer comes along who'll keep Fishtown looking much like it has for 100 years, though he knows some would-be buyers might envision it differently.
      "We want to see if we can preserve it as it is. It's important for us that it stay this way," Carlson said. "But sometimes it's not in your power once you lose control of it."
      Already, some wonder if expensive condominiums could replace the weathered buildings where slabs of smoked whitefish, artwork and souvenirs are sold and where thousands of tourists each year stroll.
      It's a prospect that troubles local shop owners like Carrie Elizabeth Hodapp, owner of Fishtown Pottery.
      "Everyone down here has hopes of keeping their business the way it is," Hodapp said. "It would be real sad to see Fishtown go - it really would."
     
      Timeless appearance
      Fishtown's connection to 19th- and early 20th Century Leland tightly weaves it to the community fabric. The buildings recall days when residents cobbled together a living from Lake Michigan's natural resources. Its timeless appearance creates a tourism appeal, and it's a magnet for locals and visitors who stroll wooden docks surrounded by water, boats, shops and the unmistakable aroma of fish.
      "We come back every year, sometimes twice a year," said Gail Lindsay of Hudsonville, whose family has a summer home on Spider Lake south of Traverse City.
      "This is part of our summer trek," she said. "We walk the docks, get some cheese curds...we just enjoy walking around."
      Melissa Gunter of Oak Ridge, Tenn., made her first visit to Fishtown last week and found herself equally impressed.
      "It's really beautiful," she said. "We're just poking around...we got here two hours ago and haven't gotten very far."
      Leland artist David Graf first visited Fishtown in 1957, when commercial fishing still thrived. One of his favorite artistic scenes was the south side of the docks, then lined by small tugs and fishing gear.
      "It was a peaceful and placid place back there," he said. "It was a wonderful place to spend a summer afternoon."
      Just as absorbing were the personalities who fished Lake Michigan and ran the tiny shops, Graf recalls.
      "Interesting characters abounded there over the years," he said.
      The district is both a historic landmark and an economic engine for Leland and beyond, drawing tens of thousands of visitors a year who shop, eat and browse northern Leelanau County.
      "It means a lot to us - it brings in a ton of people who want to see the historic side of (Leland)," said Joanie Burda, who owns the Leland Mercantile grocery store downtown with her husband Joe. "That's what gets us through the winter."
      Restaurateur Skip Telgard, whose family has operated the popular Bluebird restaurant for three generations, said Fishtown has a "tremendous ... huge" impact on Leland's summer-dominated economy. The working fish operation accents the shantytown appearance, Telgard said.
      "If Fishtown changes dramatically, if it loses its authenticity as such, it could really damage what we're doing here," Telgard said. "It's one of the biggest tourist draws in northern Michigan."
     
      Well-worn, but sound
      Carlson began piecing together the north side of Fishtown in the late 1970s, when he bought his first parcel on a land contract.
      "Every time a piece of property came up for sale, we tried to buy it," said Carlson, whose brothers Mark and Leon are minority owners. Other Fishtown property owners subsequently approached the Carlsons when they were ready to sell because of the family's commitment to keep the district intact.
      "Most of them knew we wanted to keep Fishtown active," he said.
      The family currently owns five parcels on the north side of the Leland River, housing a dozen different shops between their fish store and The Cove restaurant.
      "This is Bill's thing - it always has been from the start," said his wife Jennifer, who runs Carlson Properties, the entity that operates the Fishtown district. "I'm just proud of what he's done down here."
      Bill Carlson said the buildings in Fishtown are structurally sound, despite a well-worn appearance. Buildings have been repaired or renovated with custom wood to maintain a seasoned look. Modern plumbing and electrical systems are in place.
      "We tried to maintain the historic aspect of Fishtown, but retain the integrity of the buildings," he said.
      Carlson won't say what he thinks the property is worth, nor reveal a possible asking price. County tax records show a state equalized valuation of $534,400 placing its estimated "true cash" value at more than $1 million, although county officials acknowledge the property's likely sales value is significantly higher.
      "This is my retirement," Carlson said. "This is all we've ever done in our life...every dime we've made down here we've put back into it."
      Carlson hasn't officially listed the property for sale, but rumblings have circulated for months that Fishtown was headed for the market. Carlson said he's received some informal inquiries and said the sale price will be determined in part by what a future owner has in mind.
      "If someone just wants to buy it ... that's one price," he said. "If we can be assured of what it's going to look like in the future, that's another price."
     
      Effort to save Fishtown
      Some Leelanau residents are working to ensure Fishtown's future. The Fishtown Preservation Society, a local nonprofit group, came together more than three years ago to help maintain a commercial fishing operation in Leland. Last year, its mission shifted to trying to buy the property and keep it intact as both a historic and commercial attraction.
      "We're trying to find a way to preserve, restore and maintain Fishtown for its historical (and economic) significance," said Craig Miller, a retired attorney who lives north of Leland and is chairman of the society board. "I think it's important to the tourism of the whole area."
      District members obtained a property appraisal several months ago, Miller said, though he wouldn't discuss the numbers. He's "very optimistic" the group can raise enough money through public and private sources to buy the property, and eventually hopes to add exhibits and interpretive displays to enhance the experience for visitors.
      "Its historic significance goes well beyond the Leland community," said Laura Quackenbush, curator of the Leelanau Historical Museum in Leland. "It may well be one of the last unscathed fishing villages in the state."
      Most folks in Fishtown say they can't imagine the village being transformed into riverfront condominiums or a waterfront commercial strip.
      "I think Leland, without Fishtown, would lose a lot of its heart," Hodapp said. "That's what Fishtown gives people - not just tourist gifts, but memories."
     
See Related Story:
      Carlsons reflect on Fishtown life; Family moved to Leland in 1906

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