April 18, 2004

SOUTH POLE NOTEBOOK

TROY WILES

Don’t grab that metal!

   The temperatures have been in the minus 70s and 80s for the last few weeks. However, the temperature has shot up into the minus 30s, which is a prelude to a storm. Currently, we are in day five of a storm that has produced the strongest winds of the season — 35-plus mph. When a storm descends upon the station, the winds blow persistently for days.

   The landscape is substantially changed in just a few days after a long blow — larger sastrugi and higher drifts in places where none previously existed.

   The Pole has been bathed in various shades of blue, which washes away all landscape detail. You find yourself tripping over a three-foot drift that you are looking directly at and would swear does not exist. These are surreal times at the South Pole.

   At these temperatures, exposure of any skin for more than a couple minutes results in frostbite, which almost everyone at the Pole experiences to one degree or another. Grabbing metal with an exposed hand occurs only once, for Pavlov’s conditioning reminds you that if you don’t want another blister, then don’t do that again.

   We were fortunate this summer to experience a solar eclipse that was covered by National Geographic. Our fortune will continue this winter when we experience a lunar eclipse, May 6.

   Due to the South Pole’s position in relation to the sun and moon, we get to see every full moon during the winter.

   In addition to the Aurora Australis (Southern lights) and the lunar eclipse, there are two “first-time” comets to be seen at the South Pole this year. One is currently close enough to be seen, so we are anxiously awaiting adequate darkness and the passing of the storm. The other comet is due in late May.

   “First-time comets can be either spectacular or quite a bore,” says Dr. Nicholas Tothill, who is the South Pole Station Science Leader.

   Tothill, who is from the Harvard-Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics, is also the on-site manager of the Antarctic Submillimeter Telescope and Remote Observatory AST/RO (Astro) project this winter. AST/RO is a 1.7-meter (5.6 feet), single-dish instrument that has been operating at the South Pole for nine years. There are future plans to install an 8- to 10-meter submillimeter telescope within the next five years.

   The current submillimeter telescope has been observing molecular clouds throughout the fourth quadrant of the Milky Way and Magellanic Clouds to locate star-forming cores and study the dynamics of dense gas in our own galaxy.

   Tothill says, “This project has made a large-scale map of the gas lying in and around the center of our galaxy, particularly carbon monoxide.”

   Gases lie in huge clouds orbiting the galactic center. Occasionally, these gas clouds collapse into the center itself where they form massive stars. These stars supply fuel for the supermassive black hole that is widely believed to be in the center of our galaxy.

   This black hole, a few million times the mass of the sun, is invisible in normal light because of the dark clouds of dust and gas blocking our view; but, if we use radio waves telescopes, we find that it is one of the brightest objects in the sky.

   I am often asked, “How do you cope down there?” Or, “How do people interact with one another in such an environment?” In many ways it is like being on a ship, perhaps even a spaceship. We live in a finite, controlled environment. So, our outlets are limited.

   There are movie nights, exercise, ping-pong, pool, parties, basketball, knitting, art, board games, etc.

   We have a well-stocked library for our reading pleasure. Also, we have many VHS tapes and DVDs that we can check out for free.

   The Internet and e-mail are big draws. We have limited access due to our satellite situation, but appreciate every second.

   I find that most of us have various routines. In addition, we are all very busy working six to seven days a week.

   We do get two days off on the first weekend of each month. Saturday, April 3, we had a BBQ. The on-Ice band “Fear of Commitments” played the eight songs they have learned thus far. Twice. The performance was excellent, all things considered, and it was an excellent break from our reality.

   There is the feeling of isolation, boredom and routine that one must manage. These are the largest obstacles to overcome. Earlier explorers dealt with similar emotions during the long, dark winter. But, compared to such pioneers, we live leisurely.

   In such an environment it is important to have a high tolerance and lots of patience toward other people’s behaviors. Thus far, everyone is in good spirits, and there have been no issues.

   There has been a lot of chatter thus far about travel plans once off the Ice. From this point, the world is ours. There are some who are going around the world, others off to visit Africa and Southeast Asia. Many plan to play in New Zealand and Australia.

   Until next time fellow Michiganders, enjoy your spring.

   I would also like to wish my daughter Jenna a very happy birthday. She turns 5 on April 18.

   Cheers!

   Troy Wiles, a 38-year-old physician’s assistant from Frankfort, is part of a two-member medical team caring for about 600 researchers and staff at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station for a year. He is writing a journal for the Record-Eagle describing life at the pole. Write him at Troy.Wiles@usap.gov.


Special to the Record-Eagle/Troy Wiles
The AST/RO telescope laser mechanism and helium cooling system.